Part One- Riding the Empire Builder to Oregon

For several years, our bucket list of travel has included a cross-country rail trip. We were attracted to the view at ground level of the western landscape, the uncrowded and unhurried pace of travel and the ability to move around the train. Prior trips on the AMTRAK Autotrain to Florida always introduced us to interesting people in the dining car.  We were not disappointed with our three week trip this May.  The AMTRAK crews were always helpful, and we saw some beautiful country not seen from the interstate.

Our route began on a regional train from my brother's home in Kalamazoo to Chicago Union Station.  After lunch in the busy station and a short wait in the lounge, we were aboard the Empire Builder heading to Portland, Oregon for a two day journey.  Our sleeper car was a comfortable private lounge as we rolled through Wisconsin and then Minnesota. Before midnight we were in St. Paul and ready for some sleep.

It turned out that the rear of train was a good place to photograph, and early on the second day the view was of a brilliant sunrise.

As we rolled across on day two in North Dakota, we discovered that the train is a preferred way to travel to the small towns along the northern stretch of high plains.  At each stop, there were cars with family awaiting a returning traveler.

These stops were also fresh air breaks where you could step out and walk about for five or ten minutes. The train does allow the traveler to move about more freely than aircraft, and actually meet fellow travelers, but it is nice to walk without the ground moving underneath.

By the end of the second day, many of the coach seats were empty - indicating how many passengers were finding the train preferable to other routes to northern parts of the Dakotas.

There is no smoking on any AMTRAK train, so the short stops were announced by the conductor with the amount of time available for a smoke break. Breaking that rule would result in being put off at the next stop, which could be remote.

As we rolled across the plains, it struck me that often the highest point in many counties was atop the grain elevator along the rail line.  The idea of winter in North Dakota also was apparent.

Imagine a blizzard of driving snow against this solitary farm house on the rolling prairie.  Whew!

Each day on the rails offered four places to occupy - our sleeping compartment, the dining car, the fresh air platform at longer stops and the observation car.  The dining car introduced us to interesting people such as the father and daughter from England who later joined Pam in the  observation car.  If you wanted a short nap, our compartment was perfect.  Sometimes the view from the compartment was preferred. The platform at a stop was good for a chat with a conductor.  All in all, all four were good.


During the second night, the Empire Builder was split into one section going to Seattle and ours going to Portland.  We slept so well that we did not feel the cars being uncoupled.  When we awoke, the train was smoothly rolling along the upper Columbia River.

We enjoyed a nice boxed breakfast in the observation car.  (The dining car had gone to Seattle, but that was fine.) The view of the Columbia was beautiful.  And, even better, we were close to being on time.

Arriving in Vancouver, Washington, the train then backed across the Columbia River rail bridge and into the Portland station.

It was a quiet Sunday morning in Portland, and the weather was perfect. Our Uber driver was there almost immediately to swiftly take us to the next part of our adventure.  In a little over an hour we were settled in a camper van and ready to explore the Oregon coast for six days. 

Discovering Iceland- Reykjavik to Westfjords

Iceland has been on our bucket list for around five years.  Our route of discovery began on a Saturday at Dulles Airport, where Icelandair offers direct flights to Keflavik. As we gained altitude, we looked down at the Delaware Bay near Philly.

Arriving at midnight, one finds it is rush hour as a web of incoming flights arrive from both directions - Europe and North America.  A mass of passengers transfer to flights that continue their east or westbound travel.  Pam and I just transferred to a Greyline shuttle into Reykjavik for some sleep in a real comfy bed rather than an airplane seat. Nice.

Arriving a day early for our thirteen day Iceland Adventure from Naturescapes, we had some time to explore a little of modern Reykjavik before beginning our tour. The city is home to a majority of the country's 330,000 peoples.  The skyline is dominated by the soaring Hallgrimskirke.  In front is a statue of Leif Ericson.

Inside, the ceiling soars upward in a succession of graceful  arches that lead the eyes to a massive pipe organ.  (Note: Addition to bucket list, hearing this organ played.)

It seems that trolls are deep in the psyche of Icelandic culture.  So, it is not surprising that a stroll down Skölavördustígur Street from the kirke finds a troll for Pam to pose with.

Now, getting from our hotel on Þórunna Street to Hallgrimskirke requires navigating thru Hlemmur to find Berþórugata Street.  It is both a literal and a phonetic climb. That left us with the need for some simple nourishment.  So we found a sweet little bistro called C is for Cookies.  We found illy coffee and wonderful cookies.

Later that afternoon we met up with our tour leaders, Nikhil Bahl and Jóhann Óli Hilmarsson, and also our fellow travelers Steve, Rayner and Julie.  Our tour began with a drive around Reykjavik and ended up on a seaside golf course with a horde of nesting Arctic Terns that squabbled among themselves and protested at anyone passing nearby.  It was a great exercise in flight photography. We would see a lot more of these terns.

Our departure from Reykjavik northward to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula was at a sensible 9:30.  We found, at times, a harsh volcanic land with rough lava covered in places by little more than lichens and mosses.

Alternatively, there were lusher pockets where life was blooming.  Perhaps it was the presence of water?

We were to visit our first of many waterfalls before noon.  Kirkjufellsfoss is a nice beginning to the waterfalls of Iceland.  (Note:  ....foss is equal to ....falls in English)

The Icelandic Horse is another notable part of their history and culture, so we made the first of several stops to admire them.  One of the pluses of this Naturescapes tour was that our small size made it easy to make a quick roadside stop like this. A big bus could not do this. The cascade coming down the  mountain in the background is an indication of how frequently you find both falls and horses along the way.   This fellow was inquisitive, likely hoping for a piece of apple. He also showed a sense of humor, tho' we had no idea what he was laughing at.

Our drive skirted around the snow-capped Snæfellsjökull to a hotel in  Hellnar; we had time after dinner to visit a Kittiwake nesting cliff nearby. Pam got a beautiful photo of the nests on a sheer lava wall just above the sea.  There were birds sitting on eggs.

And, there were other birds with adorable chicks nestled beneath protected from the strong wind and cool temperatures.

The next morning called for an early breakfast and 7:25 departure for the drive to Stykkishólmur for the first ferry across Breiðafjörður Bay.  Lunch on the ferry, and we were in the Westfjords to expand our list of waterfalls with a really big one.

The Dynjandi River cascades from a high plateau. The distance from the top cascade to the foreground is deceptive.  The top cascade is reached by a steep trail climb of twenty minutes.  It is simply huge, throwing a cloud of heavy mist that defeated my attempts to keep the lens dry.

From Dynjandi, our travels took us on towards Breiðavíl and the greatly anticipated bird cliffs at Látrabjarg.  It will be Atlantic Puffins, Razorbills, and maybe an Arctic Fox.  That will be the next installment.

Paul

On the One Road towards County Cork

Our  tour continued from Dublin, departing precisely on time. (We all agreed on this as a matter of policy, tho' in fact no one was ever tardy to the bus.)  Still within the city, we made a brief stop at St. Patrick's Cathedral. The floor was in itself notable, adding a warm light to the soaring stonework. I cannot recall another cathedral that achieves such a warming effect.


Kathleen and Pat have the deep knowledge of Ireland that includes both the Guinness Storehouse and lesser known gems like St. Patrick's in Dublin.






Within the cathedral were very nice statues of important personages set before colorful glass windows, portraying iconic biblical characters. It made for a nice combination of two eras.



Back on the bus, our next destination in County Kilkenny was at the Nicholas Mosse Pottery located beside the River Nore.  We learned that the pottery is totally powered by a water turbine.  That was just the beginning of the creativity we saw there.  As a visitor arrives, the stone bridge over the river speaks of the long history in this village.

The pottery begins with the mining of the clay, and carries the process thru artisan decorating to a sophisticated firing process. The decorating area was a rich combination of technology and artistry.

photo by Pam Schmitt

After a satisfying lunch at the pottery we were once again on the road, stopping for refreshment alongside the Castle Cahir.  The pleasant scenery just keeps popping up.

Soon, we were in Blarney with both the Woolen Mill outlet to satisfy the shopper, and the Castle Blarney for those wanting to spin their own fanciful yarns.  It's a long climb to the top to kiss the mythical stone.  There are also nice gardens and a peaceful Blarney River running beside the castle.

We arrived for a two-day stay at the Mills Inn in beautiful Ballyvourney.  After a bountiful dinner, it was lessons in Irish step dancing (which thankfully was not video recorded). I came to love these country inns where local musicians and friendly locals made for a pleasant evening.




I was up early before breakfast to stroll around the village, finding some nice little scenes for my camera. There was an ancient stone tower on the hotel grounds, a stone bridge over the river that was similar to the one next to the Nicholas Mosse Pottery and this charming window in the Mills Inn courtyard.


Throughout our travels we saw all sorts of roses, some cultivated and some seeming to be wild cousins.  The one below captured my interest on my morning stroll.

The next morning, our trusty driver Con Collins squeezed our bus over a narrow bridge with a kink midway across, and we got to St. Gobnait's Shrine.

photo by Pam Schmitt

Exploring these sites brings unexpected discoveries. The sign at the graveyard entrance is unexpected, suggesting burials can still be family business.The graves span centuries for many families. There is a sense of the ages and of strong family ties.

And there is a beauty that can be found just steps up the country road from the statue of St. Gobnait. Wild digitalis is reaching for the blue sky.

Our day was still young as we left St. Gobnait's shrine and toured the green countryside, with a "STOP" in Kenmare for shopping and lunch. It was a bustling town with much to explore.

Onward we traveled with our next rest stop at Molly Gallivan's Cottage and Traditional Farm. Opposite the farm was a wonderful panoramic view of the lush countryside.

The views outside the bus were balanced with narration and song. Next was Gougan Barra where one sees St. Finbarr's Chapel on a small island in the lake. 

Our travels continued with music, history, and ample Irish food. Some of our stops were unplanned, like when we pulled over at Castle Kanturk for a quick explore.

A longer stop was at the Bunratty Folk Park and Castle.  It is a fully restored castle with a mock village to discover.  At the village pub we enjoyed a pick-up concert by Pat and sister Terri.  The village musician joined them for some delightful music.  We had to pull ourselves away to be on time to the bus.

That day ended on the sea at Kinvara. Rising early, I walked to the harbor to find a beautiful scene.

A  half mile further was the Castle Dunguaire in the early light. 

The day was off to a good start. Our travels the next day will lead us to Galway, and by evening, onto the Aran Islands. This was the most anticipated part of the trip for me.

Little Rock City

Traveling the roads in the Kentucky, Tennessee and much of the American southeast, as a child I saw these huge signs covering the entire sides of the barns. They signs simply said "SEE ROCK CITY".  It is near Knoxville, Tennessee. Never got there, but I've found another one much nearer.  I have been to it around five times and always see something to fascinate me. And, it is free.


This one is called Little Rock City. It is near Salamanca, New York in the beautiful hills of western New York.  Located in the Rock City State Forest, you take US 219 north from NY 417 for 2.1 miles.  Turn west on Hungry Hollow Road for 4.0 miles.  Then at the sign, turn left on Little Rock City road for a final mile.

As we were packing up to leave on our last visit, a family arrived and the kids headed off to discover the site.  We were  hearing young voices saying "Oh, wow!" and laughing as they followed a thin crack in the rock hilltop that opened into a giant crevasse.   I so clearly remember having the amazement on my first visit.



When you arrive at the end of the road, there is an ample parking area plus picnic and sanitary facilities.  There are two routes into the rocks; I recommend the left route for the dramatic way the ground opens up.



The working theme for Little Rock City is BIG. The scale of the monoliths dwarfs people.

The geology of this creation is interesting.  The "recent" glacial period bulldozed valleys in western New York, sometimes leaving the cap rocks lining the valley.  Water evidently got under these thick cap rocks and removed their support, so that they broke away and gradually slid down the valley slope. (I'm no geologist, so I've probably missed some fine points of this process.)

The jumble of huge rocks creates a multitude of small (and sometimes larger) openings.  These attract the younger and even the older kids.

I'm writing this in late September with one major intent to alert people to a fine location to see the autumn colors among an amazing landscape. On a precious year, I was there when there was a bit of nice color.

The tops of these rocks are so large that small forests can become established quite apart from the surrounding forest. The trees seem to walk their way up to the top, and their roots crawl down to the richer water source.

The size of the features can so awe the visitor that the smaller aspects are missed.  I find the forms seen in the roots fascinating.

I've found the best days to visit are the cloudy days.  Misty days would be even better for the rich colors when it is damp.  Expect some wet spots.  There is a marked  trail that parallels the road.  This is a good way to begin, since it is possible to become a bit lost among the rocks.

So, my recommendation is to:   

See Little Rock City

You will love it.

Paul