On the One Road towards County Cork

Our  tour continued from Dublin, departing precisely on time. (We all agreed on this as a matter of policy, tho' in fact no one was ever tardy to the bus.)  Still within the city, we made a brief stop at St. Patrick's Cathedral. The floor was in itself notable, adding a warm light to the soaring stonework. I cannot recall another cathedral that achieves such a warming effect.


Kathleen and Pat have the deep knowledge of Ireland that includes both the Guinness Storehouse and lesser known gems like St. Patrick's in Dublin.






Within the cathedral were very nice statues of important personages set before colorful glass windows, portraying iconic biblical characters. It made for a nice combination of two eras.



Back on the bus, our next destination in County Kilkenny was at the Nicholas Mosse Pottery located beside the River Nore.  We learned that the pottery is totally powered by a water turbine.  That was just the beginning of the creativity we saw there.  As a visitor arrives, the stone bridge over the river speaks of the long history in this village.

The pottery begins with the mining of the clay, and carries the process thru artisan decorating to a sophisticated firing process. The decorating area was a rich combination of technology and artistry.

photo by Pam Schmitt

After a satisfying lunch at the pottery we were once again on the road, stopping for refreshment alongside the Castle Cahir.  The pleasant scenery just keeps popping up.

Soon, we were in Blarney with both the Woolen Mill outlet to satisfy the shopper, and the Castle Blarney for those wanting to spin their own fanciful yarns.  It's a long climb to the top to kiss the mythical stone.  There are also nice gardens and a peaceful Blarney River running beside the castle.

We arrived for a two-day stay at the Mills Inn in beautiful Ballyvourney.  After a bountiful dinner, it was lessons in Irish step dancing (which thankfully was not video recorded). I came to love these country inns where local musicians and friendly locals made for a pleasant evening.




I was up early before breakfast to stroll around the village, finding some nice little scenes for my camera. There was an ancient stone tower on the hotel grounds, a stone bridge over the river that was similar to the one next to the Nicholas Mosse Pottery and this charming window in the Mills Inn courtyard.


Throughout our travels we saw all sorts of roses, some cultivated and some seeming to be wild cousins.  The one below captured my interest on my morning stroll.

The next morning, our trusty driver Con Collins squeezed our bus over a narrow bridge with a kink midway across, and we got to St. Gobnait's Shrine.

photo by Pam Schmitt

Exploring these sites brings unexpected discoveries. The sign at the graveyard entrance is unexpected, suggesting burials can still be family business.The graves span centuries for many families. There is a sense of the ages and of strong family ties.

And there is a beauty that can be found just steps up the country road from the statue of St. Gobnait. Wild digitalis is reaching for the blue sky.

Our day was still young as we left St. Gobnait's shrine and toured the green countryside, with a "STOP" in Kenmare for shopping and lunch. It was a bustling town with much to explore.

Onward we traveled with our next rest stop at Molly Gallivan's Cottage and Traditional Farm. Opposite the farm was a wonderful panoramic view of the lush countryside.

The views outside the bus were balanced with narration and song. Next was Gougan Barra where one sees St. Finbarr's Chapel on a small island in the lake. 

Our travels continued with music, history, and ample Irish food. Some of our stops were unplanned, like when we pulled over at Castle Kanturk for a quick explore.

A longer stop was at the Bunratty Folk Park and Castle.  It is a fully restored castle with a mock village to discover.  At the village pub we enjoyed a pick-up concert by Pat and sister Terri.  The village musician joined them for some delightful music.  We had to pull ourselves away to be on time to the bus.

That day ended on the sea at Kinvara. Rising early, I walked to the harbor to find a beautiful scene.

A  half mile further was the Castle Dunguaire in the early light. 

The day was off to a good start. Our travels the next day will lead us to Galway, and by evening, onto the Aran Islands. This was the most anticipated part of the trip for me.

We're on the One Road with West O'Clare

Ireland has been on our "bucket list" for its history, people, music and scenery. It is famous for forty shades of green. So we embarked with anticipation on Pat and Kathleen Kane's West O'Clare Tours "Summer in Ireland".  With their experience and Pat's fiddle, we knew it would be lively travel wherever the road led.

We began in Dublin at Glasnevin Cemetery, where the struggle for independence is honored.  We arrived fresh off an overnight flight from JFK and ready for breakfast.  I quickly learned that a full Irish breakfast means you leave with a full stomach. Refreshed with good coffee and food, we followed our guide as she walked us through an introduction to a good two hundred years of history.

A memorial to the men executed after the Easter Sunday Uprising stands near the entrance as a statement for those who stood for independence.

In addition to Kathleen and Pat, one other ingredient to a great tour is the bus driver. Over ten days, we all came to love Con Collins, and by the end of our tour wondered if there was any road in Ireland that he was unfamiliar with.

Note the light rain on the windshield.  It rarely poured, but was often contributinglightly to the forty shades of green.


We ended our first day with dinner and Irish music at the Arlington in Dublin. To our surprise, the fiddler, Jane Ferrell was from Hammonsport! We settled into a routine of breakfast at 8 and on the bus at 9.

The next morning, we ventured out from Dublin to the Hill of Tara in the Boyne Valley.  There, a village church lies next to ancient mounds from the pre-history of Ireland.We arrived in a light mist that soon faded away to nothing.

As we passed the church and toward the mounds, we passed a fresh grave adorned with flowers.  Later, we met the family of the deceased who engaged us in friendly conversation.

Up on the Hill of Tara we paused at the Mound of the Hostages. 

The mounds at Tara produced nice sweeping views, but our next stop was of greater scope. We passed along the Boyne River to the ancient site of Knowth.  From the welcome center, we walked over a bridge with a beautiful country landscape of sheep and green hills.

We boarded a shuttle bus to the site where large mounds spoke of ancient times; they likely provided underground safety in times of conflict and also served as burial safes.




 



Around the periphery were large stones with petroglyphs resembling those found in the western United States.







While we soaked in the stories of ancient times, around us were rich greens, blooming clovers and swooping birds capturing insects on the wing. Lovely.

Climbing to the top of the largest mound, we took in a rich panoramic view of Irish countryside.

Our small group of roughly two dozen, plus the knowledge of leaders and bus driver, allowed for relatively seamless adaptation to changes.  Our objective for the end of this day proved unavailable, so we returned to Dublin for interesting stops.

First, we went to the Guinness Storehouse at St. James's Gate.  It displays Guinness history and offers a panoramic view of the city while a perfect pint of stout is first drawn to about halfway, settled and then completed.  In between the history and a glass of beer is an abundance of souvenirs.

While Guinness is a top attraction in Dublin, there is much more.  We quickly went to see the Book of Kells, and then the Reading Room at Trinity College.  No photos are allowed in the Book of Kells display, just a lot of awe. We all found the Reading Room equally amazing.

All of this in only two days, and we still had so much away from Dublin on our intinerary.  Pam and I found a nice cafe a block away from the hotel and then retired for a restful night before embarking west to County Cork.

Paul