Discovering Quito and nearby Papallacta Pass

Pam and I arrived in Ecuador two days before our flight to the Galapagos. We had an extra day to discover the city of Quito before our formal tour began with a trip into the mountains (for hummingbirds). So, on day one we joined two other couples- also in our group going to Galapagos - in a guided tour of Quito.

Quito lies 9,350 feet above sea level, so a leisurely day to become accustomed to the thin air was helpful before going even higher on day two.
 
We discovered a host of welcoming Ecuadorians including our knowledgeable guide, Patricia Villarreal. The ride into the city confirmed that staying out near the new airport was a  wise decision by our tour leader.  It is an enormous city with serious traffic congestion.

Our first stop was at the statue of the Winged Virgin that overlooks the old town.  The statue is constructed of cast metal plates anchored to an internal steel frame work. One can ascend the stairs inside for an expansive view of both the old city of Quito and, to the left, the volcanic mountain that Marshal Sucre descended with the army of independence to expel the Spanish in 1822.

Note at the base of the statue is a serpent on a leash that is held by the winged Virgin Mary. Of course, the message is that the serpent of the creation story is subdued by faith.






There is an outside viewing balcony on the statue that reveals a bustling city and a multitude of volcanic peaks in every direction.

We next went into the center of the old city at the Plaza de la Independencia.




Central to the plaza is a monument to independence with a cathedral behind it and the presidential place to the right. In the plaza we found a mix of tourists, locals, vendors and police.

 

We found one lady selling beautiful woven scarfs. Her prices were a bargain, too.









We explored the sights beginning with the entrance to the Presidential Palace.  Then we went down a side street to some of the many churches. No photos were allowed in the gold encrusted church on our right, so only a door could be shown.  It was in sharp contrast to a nearby Jesuit church where a mass was in progress.  This one was far less formal, and the service was enthusiastic and lyrical.

The entire day could easily have been filled with the sights of the old town, but we moved on for a casual lunch, and a visit to a cultural  museum located exactly on the equator.

While the day's activity had not been strenuous, we did feel the effects of the thin air. 

While we toured Quito, more of our group arrived at our lodging, a 300 year old hacienda converted to a luxury garden hotel. It was a very relaxing location with a great restaurant providing a great conclusion to our day.

 

Early the next morning we went to the mountains for hummingbirds. Guango Lodge is just past the crest of Papallacta Pass (nearly 14000 feet).  The day was misty and cool, just perfect for bringing in scores of hummingbirds to the feeders.  Here are a few of the birds we saw.

Now, one would expect the hummingbirds to be the  highlight of our day in the mountains, but one huge surprise remained. As we crested Papallacta Pass and headed down towards Quito, our alert driver spotted a bear on edge of the road.  He quickly pulled off the road, and we soon saw that it was a Spectacled Bear, actually a sow and cub. They crossed just upslope from us and continued up a very steep mountainside.  These are the only bears in South America and extremely unusual to see.

We continued towards our hotel only to discover that the active Cotopaxi Volcano was in clear view just outside Quito.  Another stop and and good view of the ash venting some 50 kilometers away.

At that point it was hard to say what was the highpoint of our first two days.  It was dinner and early to bed for a 6:30 flight to Galapagos.  There would be a lot of 4 and 5 am  wake-ups for the next ten days. 

Paul

A Successful Failed Outing

Our local baseball team has blown the lead in so many games this year that I accuse them of a new tactic- snatching defeat from the jaws of victory.  It is supposed to go the other way in order to reward persistence.  So, it was for me today.  

I went out for birds this morning.  The first place was a zero. Best to forget it.  Then I went to Cornell's Arnot Teaching and Research Forest.  I spent about 1-1/2 hours along the creek that parallels the entrance road. It was frustrating. There were several Red-eyed Vireos but all too distant. One inquisitive Dark-eyed Junco lifted my spirits with its song and feeding behavior along the creek bank.

I usually see these Juncos mostly in the winter, so I am newly appreciating their summer song. Still, I was frustrated.  Packed up and drove up the road hoping to find birds I could photograph from the car.  Reached the top and not even a Goldfinch. It was turning out to be pretty much a failed outing. Then, I came upon the the foundations of some long gone farm buildings with a large bed of naturalized Day Lilies and Pink Phlox.  A second look spied Tiger Swallowtails.  So, today was now about butterflies, not birds.  Maybe I could get something out of this.

I noted that the swallowtails were all getting pretty tattered.  Still, the combination of hot  colored Pink Phlox plus the feeding swallowtails was a lift to my spirits. I ignored the fact I have these in my house garden.

What more could I expect?  As I was concentrating on a pair of swallowtails some 12 feet away, I gave no attention to what was happening on the flowers very nearby.  After all, these blooms would be too close to focus on.  But, some movement did catch my attention, and I had something to surpass the butterflies.  Have you ever seen these?  Hope so.

It is a Hummingbird Moth, technically a clearwing moth.  They hover to feed  just like their namesake Hummingbird. We discovered them on our pink phlox some years ago, and eagerly await them each year.  They are about 1-1/4 inches long typically.  You can see in the next photo the clearwing.

They are an extreme challenge to photograph. They never stay on a bloom for very long and are erratic in their flight. You have to be fast and have a quick-focusing camera.   The image above has a shutter speed of 1/3200 second in order to stop the motion. No flash can help at this brief shutter opening.

Oh yes, I did see a female Ruby-throated Hummingbird on the phlox, but she was quick to see me and exit. Too bad.

So, somehow this failed outing did turn out to be successful. With that in mind, I passed on a ball game tonight to edit the photos and share them with you.  Hope you enjoyed them.

Paul Schmitt